Prototype light for Sn2 Free-mo, seen over my in-progress Bigelow module set.

I'm building several Sn2 Free-mo modules (for more information on Sn2 Free-mo see: http://www.narrowtracks.com/Sn2/Free-Mo/ .  I'm planning to detail my scenes a great deal and want viewers to be able to enjoy my efforts.  Enjoyment requires lighting sufficient to see that detail, which is often a problem during showings.  To add to that, my model railroad space is not well lit and may not get finished for a few years.  So, it seems like it's time to address two issues at once, layout lighting on the road and at home.

Objectives:

• Portable

• Disassembly of light fixture from support

• Nice even light, with minimum shadowing

• Light that would not be harsh to a views eyes

• Support that is "discrete", as free-mo layouts do not have backdrops to hide support and may be viewed from both sides.

• Support that would not be in the way of operation, as a free-mo layout may get operated from either side.

• Inexpensive

• Easy to construct, using ready made components.

Other module layout lighting solutions were also considered.

• Columbus Indiana On30 modular layout lighting.....The system lights from the front, using a shadow box effect.  The lights are in 4" PVC pipe sliced in half.  The On30 modules have backdrops, and the lights are hung off shelving brackets mounted to the top of the backdrop.  This is the best lighting for a module I've seen in person.  I could take photos without flash in an open hall.  While the solution is not applicable to Free-mo, as it requires a backdrop, it was inspirational because it showed what a home-made solution could do....

• The HOn30 Great Lakes modular group is using a lighting system (click here to see a photo)  The system uses conduit for support and modified clip on shop lights (I've found the 5 1/2" lights at Lowes).  It did wonders for the viewing of the modules.  Additionally, it gives a very clean look.  This was not an ideal solution for me, for the following reasons:

  • Circular light seems to create hot spots.

  • Light bulbs are not covered, so seem harsh to this viewers eye (I'm 6'4" and the bulbs were exposed and near my eye line.  Probably not an issue to shorter viewers).  Possibly different bulbs would help...

  • Most importantly, the shape of the conduit would exceed my 7'3" ceiling restriction (I think)

  • No means to position the light forward or reduce shadows.

The following is a picture description of the solution I'm prototyping....

Here is the prototype in action.  The conduit supports the light fixture...Once can just see a slight harsh light coming from under the fixture, read on to find out how I'll address that...To make the fixture removable from the conduit, I had to have a plug system.  My plan is to route the extension cord through the conduit, and have it come out after the bend.  Then the short cord from the fixture to the extension cord will complete the connection in a reasonably discrete manner.  At least the cord will not be visible when looking at the module.  The horizontal portion of the conduit is 7 feet off the ground, thus the bottom of the fixture is roughly 6'6".  Our modules are 50" high, so the fixture is 28" above the layout.

The prototype fixture...."Hood".  1" pipe clamps are used to hold it to the pipe.  They are not tightened, the fixture slips onto the conduit, and is free to swing.  I may add a cap or screw or something to keep the fixture from accidentally falling off (although that would only happen in a major catastrophe).    Depending on the width of the module and viewing location, the hood can be slid back and forth to best light the scenes below.  The aluminum cover is heating pipe opened up.  It is screwed on.  The final construction will include screws at the end of the sheet to (remember, this is a prototype).  Rather than using aluminum, a slightly different design of luan plywood could have been used too.  I thought the rounded hood looked better than I could have made from plywood.   The wood sides will be painted, but I'm not sure if I'll go black or white.  I thought I'd paint the whole fixture and conduit black....But now I like the look....So as a first pass I'll paint the wood only...The fixture is about 11x11" on the bottom.

Here is an image of the pipe I used.  The sheet on the right is full size (24" long), and the sheet on left was cut in half, the other half being used on the hood.  I can get two hoods from each sheet.

The backside of the fixture...The wire is for the light.  I still need to figure how I'm going to put strain relieve into the wire.   The knots (on both sides) work for the prototype, but I'd like a more formal solution for the final version.

The underside of the hood.  For the prototype, I did not trim off the aluminum folds, they will be removed in future versions.  Once can see the knot for strain relieve of the wire on the inside.  I'm looking for an improved solution to the strain relieve.  The socket used is about $2-3 at Lowes or Home Depot.  One thing I do not like, is that the wires are exposed, thus a shocking hazard should one stick their fingers inside.  Porcelain socks are available (as seen in use by Joe Fugate: http://siskiyou.railfan.net/model/constructionNotes/lighting.html), but I can not find them for less than $8 each.  Too expensive.  Now that I plan to use a filter/lense, I'm no longer concerned about shocking, I'll make the filter screw on, so that it can only be removed when the hood is detached, thus most likely unplugged.  At this time, I'm using a 26W CFL (100W equivalent).  Using the CFL means the fixture will not get hot.  Choosing a light temperature is challenging.  CFL's come readily in 2700K, 3500K, and 6500K.  6500K is "outdoor", so would seem like the natural choice.  However, when mixed with other light sources, it seems very blue (to me and my wife).  2700K is very yellow, giving a warm feel, great for the home, but not for a outdoor layout scene.  For now, I'm planning to use the 3500K CFL's because they will probably look the best in a venue that contains lights of 2700K similar.  I must say, that I question the 6500K as outdoor, as photography books always promoted 5000K as working with outdoor film.  If I can find 5000K CFL's, I'll probably consider them, but the Home Depots and Lowes near me do not seem to carry them...

The support for the fixture is conduit, this image shows how the conduit is tied into the layout legs.  Velcro straps are used to strap the conduit to the leg of a module.  I'll probably add spacers to space the conduit away from the module.  Some form of "indexing" will be required too, so that the conduit can not rotate as rotation will rotate the light.  Layout skirting will have to pass by too.  Although my legs are close to the ends, so I may just fold the skirting in from one side and bridge over form the adjacent module.

Here the hood has been modified with a piece of 11x11" lighting filter/lens.  I cut the piece from a 2x4' florescent light filter.  The filter distributes the light and reduces the harshness of the light on a viewers eyes.

With filter/lens in place, it's easy to see that the light is not so harsh to ones eyes.

The prototype had the filter/lens duct taped to the bottom.  I had not planned for the filer; the wood sides are too far below the aluminum hood, this some harsh light comes out the side.  I hope to redesign the hood shape, so that the filter and aluminum hood will be flush, avoiding the harsh light.  That said, the tape makes a nice seal, so could be used.  The light from the fixture is acceptable for about two feet each direction, thus the fixtures will be required about every 4 feet to achieve even lighting.

At this time, I'm happy with my prototype.  I'll probably refine it a bit more, then proceed to produce 5-6 more for my modules.  Here is a summary of what I hope to refine:

• Side shape for fixture attachment snug to hood

• Filter/Lens attachment

• Painting of hood sides

• Routing of wire through conduit

• Bulb temperature

• Add caps to each end of conduit.  Bottom is critical to avoid damaging floors, I'd think PVC cap will handle the floor.

More on hood shape:  The hood sheet makes a 90 degree bend, and the bend is is roughly 2" radius arc.  I located the bulb concentric to the 2" radius curve.  So for the bend, all reflection off the hood is directly back towards the bulb.  Is that optimal? I'd think the preference would be to divert the light around the bulb.  I could change the shape, but I think the simplest solution will be to raise the bulb, making non-concentric to the arc.  I'm guessing 1/2" should be enough.  The CFLs are cool enough, that the hood should not over heat.  This change will allow me to shorten the hood by 1", thus reducing overall size and enabling the filter to meet the aluminum hood sides.

One major shortcoming is that the lights are attached to the module (legs).  Thus, when doing heavy work on the module, the lights would swing and sway.  I do not see this as a problem for shows, but it is a problem during construction.  My option will be to move them away from the layout (or to other module) when working on the layout or attach them to the walls or poles in the basement.  I could also hang the fixtures from the ceiling.

It is important that the other members of the Sn2 Crew find my lighting system acceptable.  We display together, each individuals work does reflect on how the whole is accepted.  But even if they do not, I'm likely to construct more for my own use (Unless they have an idea I like better).  I will say, I'm not going to spend all winter refining the lighting, as we are planning to setup in March.

Suggestions of Sn2 Crew (not a full list, but most significant):

• Frank/Lee: Use aluminum flashing, rather than pipe. (According to home depot site it's available in 8", 10", and 14" widths.)

Concerns of Sn2 Crew:

• Frank:  Concern of 120V (Frank suggests considering a Malibu "wash" light which is 20V.  Home depot carries single versions, they are roughly 7" in diameter)

• Lee: How would each Sn2 Crew member bend their own conduit?  (Lee wonders if PVC might be the solution).

Sockets:  Frank found a cheep source of the sockets used by Joe Fugate.  Here is the direct link:  http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sfid=136763&i=153447206&c=0

This is a general search: http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sid=1&sfid=136763&c=0&search_text=porcelain+socket&submit=go